American Engineering could have reached its peak in 1948. RCA ribbon microphones such as the 44BX and the 77DX have yet to be duplicated in terms of smoothness of sound and the Toastmaster Model 1B14 is certainly the 44BX of the breakfast world. Many of us grew up with this toaster in our homes, it was the most common wedding gift of the 1950's and at a retail price of $23.50, it was not inexpensive. Frustrated with the disposable toasters of today, I've been wanting to get an old Toastmaster and found one recently in Duluth. Paid $20 for it which raised the eyebrows of those around me but I have since made converts of my whole family. I wanted to "go through" the toaster before I started using it and disassembled it completely. What a true testament of an ethic when things were made to last. The model I have was made in 1948 according to the serial number and it was obviously well used. However, it was NOT worn out. A complete cleaning, burnishing of the electrical contacts, and reassembly left me with a toaster that rocks! Toasters nowadays are S-L-O-W due to manufacturer's concerns of liability for starting fires, so they keep the internal temp down. Well, the 1B14 can make toast in about 1/2 the time of a conventional toaster and the satisfying 'snick' of the pushdown is pure joy to those who appreciate quality. Internally, the 1B14 is extremely well made, with robust components and a design that just doesn't seem to have wear points.
A word of warning, however. I'd gotten my in-laws 1B14 that was in immaculate conditions however it used asbestos as the insulator between the nichrome heating wires. I was heartbroken as I couldn't in good conscience use this for food consumption. The 1948 model I bought in Duluth used mica for the insulation and is the reason I was so excited to find it as mica doesn't present the health hazard asbestos does. But think about it ... this toaster was made 60 years ago and works better than what you can buy today. hmmmmmmm.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
American Engineering - Toastmaster
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64 comments:
How do you tell what material (mica or asbestos) is in your toaster ? I also found a 1B14 Toastmaster and would like to use it if it does'nt contain asbestos !
Hi Chris-
Look at the backing material that the heating wires are fastened to... a mica insulator is very shiny and flakes can be teased off of it with a probe. The flakes will be almost transparent. The asbestos backing models have a gray cardboard look to them... sorta like the interior of a shoebox. When teased with a probe, the asbestos crumbles more than flakes.
Let me know what you find!
Bought Mama a 1B14 ca 1955. Works great except must keep dial on "lighter" for everything. Can't figure out how this works- there's just a brass nut inside the dial.
Anybody got a fix?
In the center of the browning control is a fine screwdriver slot. Unscrew this, take the knob off, reposition it to "Dark" and put the screw back in.
Have this same toaster with wiring that should be changed. Do not have a diagrahm and unsure which screws will correctly lead me to the wiring. Appears that those screws below the bakelite handle would take me there however the this also messes with the bottom door hinge and want to make sure before opening pandora's box. Thanks. Jim
Hey Dan-
I have mica ! And, I have beautiful toast :)
I had the same experience with the browning control as Anonymous, so I'm gonna give your fix a try.
G'Day !
We have a 1B14 toaster from 1951 (according to serial number chart), are we free of asbestos? Thank you!
I don't have a resource that tells whether the insulation material was made of asbestos or mica based upon serial number or year of manufacture. Just look at it and you can tell, per my first comment posted on this blog.
Just inherited a nice 1B14 from my late grandfather, and it works great, except that the toaster doesn't pop-up any more... After looking at the backside of the dark/light dial, there is just a nut on it. Was there anything attached to this that would make the toaster eject? Anyone have pictures? Thanks!
By the way, the dial turns right, as does the nut inside, and I have tried light and dark with no success... Thanks!
I have restored many 1B-14s and I have NEVER seen one with asbestos plates. Even the Kenmore version that was made by Toastmaster for Sears-Roebuck (After the end of production of the Toastmaster version) came with mica plate. The Asbestos plate must have been replacement. Proctor used a lot of asbestos in their toasters.
The 1B-14 is the pinnacle of the American Pop-up.
So, the backing material that I want to check for asbestos would simply be those square thin "plates" that sit behind the elements, right? What about the cord? I was told that those old cloth cords almost always contain asbestos, is that true? Are the cords easily replaced with modern, non-cloth ones?
BTW, does anyone sell an inexpensive liquid solution to test vintage appliances for parts containing asbestos?
Thanks
RandeX,
We you say, "behind the elements," I think you mean behind the WIRE GUARDS that keep the toast from touching the heating elements.
So, just so we're clear on terms. The heating element is the square boards that have wires running horizontally that heat up (turn orange). This board is what you should check for asbestos. Just follow Dan Houg's 11/3/2008 posting.
Asbestos is naturally occurring in nature and is only a problem when it's in a dry friable state which when it is, is susceptible to break into a fine dust that can get airborne. Bottom line, if you shine a flashlight into the toaster & it looks shiny (reflects the light) then it's mica (a stone that shears very easily).
Regarding the cloth cord. The cord's purpose is to conduct electricity from your house wiring to the toaster. The cloth & whatever is underneath it is an insulator so you don't get a shock plugging in and unplugging your toaster. Asbestos is like gypsum (drywall / wallboard), it's meant to be left alone & not handled at all. Asbestos's number one purpose is heat reflection not electrical insulation.
Anyway, yes you can replace the cord if the insulation is broken or so you just feel better. Go to the hardware store and buy the same gauge wire and plug. Both with tax should be well under $10, may even less than $5. Before you go, cut about 6" of the cord & take it along so you get the right gauge (size) of wire. Just guessing, you can't go wrong with 14 gauge 2 conductor wire. You may also want to measure the cord.
JONATHAN & JIM (aka Anonymous
Jon there's a spring on the bottom of the toaster. It might have jump off, or maybe it's broken. If it broke, just buy another spring at your local Ace / Lowe's or True Value hardware store.
Jim (& Jon) to get to the wiring & the spring you need to remove the bottom door hinge plate. Jon you'll see the spring right away, located dead center, or it should be if it didn't jump off. You'll need a pliers to re-hook the spring and maybe bend loop ends so their smaller.
Jim if you're working on the heating elements you remove the bottom hinge plate and door. If you're just replacing the cord, you just have to remove the baked plastic end.
First remove the 2 screws in the bottom. Then grab the toaster firmly and push downward on the plastic end, with the cord, while pulling up on the adjoining housing. It'll slide about a half-inch & then you can pull the 2 pieces apart. There's 2 screws that slide in a slot like a picture hangs on the wall. The heads of the screws in the plastic fit into a 1920's version of a keyhole (large hole with narrow slot adjoining it).
"Model 1B14 is introduced (in 1947). The toaster remained a staple in the Toastmaster line until 1961, winning the title of the world's most popular toaster for more than a decade." from www.toaster.org/tmaster_history
Paul
Just add .html at the end of the tag line I referenced above for the source.
replacement cords... be sure to buy the readily available "heater cord". this is wire with rubber neoprene instead of PVC insulation and it stands much more heat. this is needed because if a PVC cord lies against the metal case of the toaster, the insulation can melt thru creating a shock and fire hazard.
My 1B14 has the exact same problem with the browning control knob. So there's supposed to be a spring in there on the inside? Any chance you can post a picture of yours that shows where the spring is connected? I can only imagine that the proper tension spring would need to be acquired as well, eh?
Hello, i have a 1B14, i bought SO cheap in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
But dont "pop up" the bread just heat.
im dessarm the toaster, and the "wheel" dark-light, inside "goes to nothing" (i think a piece is missing or something, equals the piece who free the mechanism.
i put so pictures from inside here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/teardropsonme/4858518513/in/set-72157624524711551
sorry, my english is soo bad.
perhaps, someone can help me
thanks
Dario
my mail: dario.crucil@gmail.com
Bob, I don't think the spring tension is critical. Just so long as the spring rate is sufficient to lift the toast up. There's a locking mechanism that has a positive engagement that doesn't release until the browning factor is satisfied.
I got a photo from a Google imagine search that I marked up. Here's the link to the imagine in it's virgin state: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTcQW0AmXp83cnKpJi0pAd4VRLuVZ1JxNLSS6NcnKISej_8hf2v
I've magnified the imagine 8X and will try posting in flicker shortly. The imagine came from '1b14 toastmaster bottom' Google imagine search.
Here's the link to the marked up pic
http://picasaweb.google.com/thumannp/AmericanEngineeringToastmaster?authkey=Gv1sRgCPqvz6C03NuzNA#5562894640852921650
Hi Dan-
Just found this thread on old toasters and I share your appreciation of their durability and function. I have a 1939 Sunbeam T-9 toaster and want to replace the cord. I have found new, cloth covered cord at sundial wire (www.sundialwire.com) which I would like to use to keep the antique character of this beautiful art deco toaster. Is 14 gauge cord sufficient? They only have 3 wire, but I figure I can just clip the third. I just want to make sure the 14 gauge is safe.
Thanks!
hi Jean-
14 ga. wire would be fine. but i wouldn't clip the ground lead... attach it to the metal of the shell so that the shell is grounded. this will prevent electrical shock should the line voltage short to the case.
-dan
One of the heating elements on my Toastmaster 1B14 stopped working. Is the element repairable or replaceable? I love my toaster and would like to get another 60+ years out of it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Dan et al,
I found your blogsite while Googling my Toastmaster 1B12 to find out if I had safety issues while repairing, re: asbetsos. Mica it is behind the heating elements - yea! Asbestos in cloth covered cord maybe, but it's OK for now, I will replace later if it deteriorates.
So I'm hoping the mechanism is similar to the 1B14 with which you are familiar.
The problem is that push down tab no longer "catches". It became "mushy" then no longer caught at all.
I have disassembled and I see how the inner mechanism of the push down tab should catch under a "beaked" lever which emanates from the lower part of the toaster where the heat control/timing elements reside. I can manually make the beaked lever move forward to "catch" the push down tab's inner arm, but what makes this happen normally?
I can send pics to anyone who may be able to shed light on this.
Thanks in advance for your time and help.
Charles
Pittsboro, NC
Hi - I need to be sure about whether or not my Toastmaster 1B24 (1953) has asbestos. It seems to me it has qualities of both mica and asbestos. It's mostly dull gray, with some shiny sparkles, some of which flake off, mica-like, and some crumble. It seems to be a fairly hard material. (Of course it works great!) Well, OK, if I push harder with a sharp knife I get thin, clear flakes - mica?
that sounds like Mica... the shiny flakes. the asbestos will look more like shoebox cardboard-- gray and slightly fibrous. if you send me a clear closeup of the material, i could give you an opinion. email it to engineer@kaxe.org.
-dan
We have a 1B24 which exhibited the same symptoms that others have mentioned: it wouldn't pop up by itself. So, I tore the whole thing apart and found it was full of 60 years of crumbs and gunk from toasting raisin bread. After thoroughly cleaning it out, it worked! I, too, was puzzled by the "light - dark" adjustment. It doesn't do anything but screw a little disk in and out. Fortunately it has mica behind the nichrome wire toasting elements. The biggest problem was in getting the chrome cover back on without having the ceramic insulators on the top(8 of them) and toast guide wires (16 of them) fall out. I finally used masking tape to hold them in while reassembling. After it was back together, most of the tape could be removed, and the remainder burned off. I was amazed at the quality of build. It was made to last. And it makes perfect toast in record time. I am certain it will last for another generation before it has to be cleaned out again.
I picked up one of these toasters this weekend. I'm guessing its from the mid 50's because there's a patent date of 1953 underneath. Anyway, mine has mica for the heating elements but I am definitely leery of the cord. The cord itself isn't frayed or damaged. But when you remove the right handle the cloth covering terminates before getting to the electrical connections. Thus there is an inch or two of what appears to be wires covered in some sort of woven white stuff. I'm not sure if its asbestos or fiberglass. Hard to tell. I sprayed it with a bit of water when I was investigating the contacts.
Anyway, if you have a cloth covered cord, is it almost guaranteed to be asbestos? I'm sort of paranoid about the stuff as you can tell.
I picked up one of these toasters this weekend. I'm guessing its from the mid 50's because there's a patent date of 1953 underneath. Anyway, mine has mica for the heating elements but I am definitely leery of the cord. The cord itself isn't frayed or damaged. But when you remove the right handle the cloth covering terminates before getting to the electrical connections. Thus there is an inch or two of what appears to be wires covered in some sort of woven white stuff. I'm not sure if its asbestos or fiberglass. Hard to tell. I sprayed it with a bit of water when I was investigating the contacts.
Anyway, if you have a cloth covered cord, is it almost guaranteed to be asbestos? I'm sort of paranoid about the stuff as you can tell.
yes, the cord contains asbestos but it is encapsulated by the cord. see this thread:
http://174.122.4.235/~antiquer/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=169122
My wife just purchased a Toastmaster 1B14 model. It will not pop up. I opened it up to watch the release mechanism in action. Unbelievable piece of engineering (to a layperson like me). As the light dark nut is contacted, initially there is some movement, but no pop up. Unplugging the toaster at that point, allows the bimetallic strip to move back to the start position. During that travel the toast carriage will pop up. Any thoughts?
I found a 1B14 today at a thrift store for $12.99....snapped it up!
Serial # is 253,509 making it a 1947-1948 model ... it toast's great!
Love your blog-nice older gent at cafe asked if I could repair his toaster cord-in the process, the wire guides fell out-where exactly do they fit-and which ones need the little white tube? Thanks for all the great info!!
Oops never mind figured it out!!
I have a 1B9 model that was my in-laws, manufactured between june 1941 and Mar 1942. The backing looks dull but when scraped gives shiny flake-like pieces. Given the year is it more likely mica or asbestos?
Would you say this is abestoes or mica via picture?
http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=281947&image=605377151&images=605376949,605377055,605377151,605377191,605377263&formats=0,0,0,0,0&format=0
Thank you! (PS, time is of the essence yet I appreicate any input whatsoever). :)
Was it just the one year that used asbestos? I have the 1B9 and now I'm afraid! But it makes beautiful toast and I'd really love to use it.
I don't think there's any realistic danger from asbestos - the really bad stuff came from Australia in the 1930s. There was a lot of hype over it, culminating in the statement that any exposure at all would kill you in about six years. Remember those big asbestos gloves we wore in high school chemistry, and all the brake pad dust, and the insulation? If there was any real danger we'd all be dead a dozen times over. In any case there isn't enough dust coming off a cord to harm you. Enjoy your toasters and don't let some dated media hype ruin your day, it was all just to have something to say on the news.
I have two 1b14 toasters. Have damaged cords so disassembled them to do the replacement. I will pass on a couple suggested 1 turn the light dark knob clockwise all the way, thus provding more clearance to femove the cover 2 sqeeze inward on the cover and slide up on the handles to remove them. 3 do not turn the unit upside down to remove the cover. Raise it to eye level and align the light dark knob with the knotch.
nello
I agree with all comments about what a great product this is. We've had ours for over 25 years and it worked great until one of the elements quit due to a broken segment. So, where do I get a replacement? I just need one, mica or whatever.
Rob
Would you recommend 16 gauge, or is 14 gauge better for replacing a frayed cord?
it is more important to buy true 'heater cord' which has a natural rubber insulation and is heat resistant. just buy whatever gauge wire the heater cord comes in.
Dan....I have a toastmaster 1814 too. I already replaced the cord but I'm concerned that the insulation behind the heating elements might be asbestos. I poked at it with a knife but I cannot figure out the answer based on the discussion above. The photo of my insulation looks the same as the one posted by anonymous on 23 Sept 2012 and those posted by Daro on 3 Aug 2010. Do you think its mica or asbestos? Thanks so much?
Steve B
here's a photo from a previous poster above... these are mica plates.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/teardropsonme/4858510133/in/album-72157624524711551/
OK, you mention the ceramic insulators at the top. I needed to get into one to replace a cord, and you guessed it - all the toast guides and insulators fell out on the floor one after another. I can tell how the wires go back in but I didn't see before hand where the insulators were at. Any help?
I have rebuilt, and sold a Waters-Genter 1-D-1;
http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/141445-waters-genter-1-d-1-commercial-toaster
I have since amassed 6 more 1-D-1's (4 slice), 1, - 1-C-1 (3 slice)
and 1, 1-F-1 (8 slice) and eventually would like to find a 12 slice, designation unknown.
If you could put me on to the trail of where I could find literature on these toasters,
technical or otherwise, I would really appreciate it.
Toastmaster 1B14 door Bought 2 at an estate sale the lower door catch is worn do you have suggestion? is there some where I can find parts?
Thank You
John from Idaho
One of the elements of my 1b14 toaster stopped working this morning. How can I fix it?
Thanks,
Mike
One of the elements of my 1b14 toaster stopped working this morning. How can I fix it?
Thanks,
Mike
Fixing it totally depends on how handy you are and how deeply you're willing to get into it. Some facts first. Nichrome wire, which your element is, is virtually indestructible in normal usage in a toaster. The only thing that can stop it from working is if its continuity is disrupted, due to a corroded contact point or breakage. Most common breakage comes from (and I'm not joking here), is caused by people sticking things into the toaster in order to remove a too big piece of bread, or large pastries. Fixing it is absolutely going to necessitate opening the toaster up. If you are particularly handy and not worried about failing, you may take the chance, otherwise your best bet is to find, and buy, another one. They're not all that expensive. Now that I've put you off on the whole idea of trying to fix it yourself, I'll tell you the fix.
Let's assume you've opened the toaster and upon visual inspection you have found no evident break in the element that will not light. At this point, if you have a voltage multi-meter that will read Ohms (resistance), you can probe along the wire looking for a point where you no longer can read resistance. Now, obviously, if you find no loss of resistance between any two points going through the entire winding, the problem would be at the tie in points of the wire. Some times these points are riveted, most times in some of the older toasters it is a nut an bolt connection. I suspect that would be the case in your toaster, so loosening and re-tightening thereby re-burnishing the contact point may be all that's needed, though I truly doubt this to be the problem. I've only seen this as a problem when I've screwed up in reassembling one. Hey, I ain't perfect. The wire you're inspecting is one continuous piece, from one contact point to the other. As it is wound around the mica board it is mounted on it makes hard folded bends around the board that can, if disrupted, break defying discovery. Probing the wire gingerly along the outer edge of the board with a toothpick, plastic stirrer, just something non metallic that could damage the wire, if there is a break there will be easy movement at a point where there should be none and the break would be evident. Stating the obvious, as long as it is not plugged in, there is no danger of being hurt. My only concern is related to breaking the wire.
Since we are way past the point you ever thought you'd be, we'll say upon inspection you found an obvious break along the wire ion the face of the board. In order to fix it tho would need a piece of nichrome wire of equivalent width. Nichrome wire cannot be soldered, direct contact with compression will do. The manner in which I myself have repaired these wires would necessitate all four ends (each side of the break and the ends of the repair piece) to be bent hard at 90 degrees, hooked together and the tabs bent over and compressed with a needle nosed pliers clipping off the excess past the width of the wire itself so as not to contact adjacent windings. Clear as mud, I know, but that is what would need to be done.
So, like I stated before, overall, your best bet would be to find a replacement. In the event you are wondering why I would take all this time to explain all the possibilities you'd be facing, suffice it to say, I'm retired, have the time, and the knowledge of having repaired many a toaster of a vintage nature.
Good luck!
Oh. Thank you. I am all thumbs but I will try this. If you are interested I will let you know how it goes.I only do not know where to get nichrome wire
Oh. Thank you. I am all thumbs but I will try this. If you are interested I will let you know how it goes.I only do not know where to get nichrome wire
You're taking on a lot, but I won't deter you. You're going to need a fairly good set of common tools and at least of mechanical ability and understanding, so just take your time and analyze the job in front of you. Good luck, and yes, please let me know how you make out. In the meantime I'm going to see if I have a B-14 among my many toasters so if you have a question later on. Also I'll see the size of the wire
it needs, I may have some I could send you from my pile a salvage.
My 1B14 decided to burn my toast after over 60 years of proper toasting. I turned the light/dark dial all the way to the lightest side, but it still burns the toast. Any idea what went wrong, and can it be fixed?
I was wondering if there is any place on the web to find pictures on how to fix my 1b24 toaster?. I put to big of a piece of bread in it then tried to get it out and some pieces came out of the toaster and I am not sure how to find where the pieces go? I have tried using some of the links I saw on older posts but get error messages
I know this is a pretty old thread but could someone tell me where the serial number chart is located? I just picked up a 1B14 today and was just curious as to when it was made. Serial #A4952737
I, too, would love to know where to find the serial number chart. I have #2702260.
To the people wondering why the adjustment knob seems to not be attached to anything: The nut serves as a stop in the timing mechanism. The timer consists of a bi-metal strip that warps in the direction of this nut as it is heated. When it hits the stop it shuts the heating element off and pops the toast up. It's explained better here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kISvSvIgiPg
I just inherited my parents Toastmaster 1B14 and would like to find out what year it was made. I can't find the serial number chart anywhere. The SN is 3543731. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!
i haven't been able to locate the date/serial # chart myself! if anyone comes across it, please post a link.
-dan
Not sure if anyone else is still looking for the serial number chart after several years, but I found it re-posted on Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/toasters/comments/m3vq4h/toastmaster_serial_number_chart_the_site_this_was/
I've had a Toastmaster 1b9 toaster for the last 15 years. In that whole time, with minimal servicing, it's been used almost every day and has always worked perfectly.
Aside from the main lever it has just one control: the darkness setting. Set it to light, and the toast is slightly tan. Set it to dark, it's five seconds away from being charred. Anywhere else on the dial and it'll come out exactly as you told it to. 100% perfect toast every time.
Why can't this be replicated?
Friends and relatives all complain about how they can't get anything to toast right in their more modern toasters. "I set it to light and it wasn't toasted at all. Then I moved the setting just one hare darker and it burnt the toast." They're also wretchedly slow and have no weight to them at all.
These problems are a common running theme, yet it seems like we had it all figured out 80+ years ago. Yes, adjusted for inflation the old Toastmaster was quite expensive compared to most modern machines, but it seems like maybe we lost the plot in the pursuit of cost optimization. What good is it having a cheaper toaster if it doesn't even work?
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